
In May 2013, I posted the above photograph on this blog. It was taken by photographer Taslima Akhter, at the site of the Rana Plaza building collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Two garment workers, unnamed and unidentifiable, found in a final embrace, buried together in the rubble of a factory that should never have been standing in the first place.
I wrote at the time that questions about “accountability for how the global garment industry is governed” had been being asked for more than twenty years, and wondered how many more years needed to pass before unnecessary lives stopped being lost.
That was thirteen years ago. The question, uncomfortable as it remains, is the one I keep returning to.
The global garment industry’s accountability crisis didn’t begin with Rana Plaza. It had roots stretching back through the 1990s, when sweatshop scandals (involving major brands and poor factory conditions across Asia and Central America) ignited public fury and, eventually, action.
Many companies found themselves in the crosshairs of campaigners, investigative journalists, and increasingly their own consumers. The industry’s response slowly evolved into something more structured. Codes of conduct were written. Auditing regimes were established. Corporate Social Responsibility departments were stood up. A whole apparatus of compliance mechanisms began to proliferate. Much of it well-intentioned, some of it genuinely effective, but quite a lot of it ultimately insufficient.
Rana Plaza, on 24 April 2013, was the industry’s most shattering moment of reckoning. Over 1,100 workers died when the building complex in Savar collapsed. Cracks had been reported. Workers had been told to return anyway. In the days that followed, the labels of high-street brands from across Europe and North America were pulled from the rubble alongside the bodies. The world, briefly, faced what it had been buying.
What followed was a genuine step forward: the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety was signed by over 200 garment brands and trade unions, establishing an independent, legally binding mechanism for factory inspections and remediation. It was unprecedented, and it illustrated just how much the threat of accountability (public, legal, reputational) could shift industry behaviour when applied with sufficient pressure. But compliance, even when enforced, only goes so far. You can mandate a fire exit. You can’t mandate dignity, or opportunity, or a living wage, through a checklist.
This is perhaps an important, central failure of the past three decades: the garment industry became very good at measuring problems but considerably less good at solving them. Audits, assessments, surveys, and reporting frameworks multiplied. Brands invested in supplier scorecards. NGOs published league tables. Governments (particularly in Europe) began legislating on due diligence and supply chain transparency. All of this produced enormous quantities of data about where things were going wrong.
What it didn’t produce, reliably, was sustained improvement in the lives of workers – the overwhelming majority of them women – who make the clothes. The gap between knowing and changing turns out to be vast, and it’s one the industry has been navigating ever since.
And that navigation looks different depending on where you are. The compliance frameworks that emerged in the wake of Rana Plaza were, in many ways, a response to one specific context, and that context remains one of the most complex in the world. Bangladesh’s garment industry is vast, politically entangled, and still grappling with pressures that other sourcing countries have had more time, or more favourable conditions, to begin addressing.
Applying a single industry logic across Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia, Cambodia, and beyond (countries at very different stages of this journey, with very different labour environments and political realities) has always been one of the harder problems, and it doesn’t get talked about enough.

This is precisely the space that RISE – Reimagining Industry to Support Equality has been working to occupy.
RISE focuses on low-income workers in garment, footwear, and home textile industries: the people at the base of the supply chains that clothe the world. The overwhelming majority of those workers are women, and RISE treats that fact not as a footnote but as the central organising reality of everything they do. Gender isn’t a thematic add-on for them, it’s the lens through which the whole supply chain is read – because you can’t meaningfully improve conditions in these industries without confronting the power dynamics, the wage structures, the management behaviours, and the cultural norms that shape women’s experience of work within them.
Their ambition is broader than programme delivery. They are trying to shift the conditions under which change happens (the incentives, the relationships, the industry norms) not just run workplace interventions and hope for the best.
I’ve had the good fortune of working with RISE on a couple of occasions, since their establishment in 2023, including facilitating a workshop in Yogyakarta last month. I’m currently collaborating with their team, and many of their members (brands including Gap, Target, PVH, Lululemon, Ralph Lauren, American Eagle, VF Corporation, and others) about future initiatives and strategies.
What has struck me, sitting in these recent discussions, is a.) how much the industry has genuinely evolved and b.) of course, how much remains stubbornly unresolved.
Many brands have been investing seriously in supplier relationships, worker wellbeing programmes, gender initiatives, and sustainability commitments for years. And yet the fragmentation of effort across the ecosystem remains a persistent problem. Brands often run parallel initiatives. Suppliers can be subjected to multiple, sometimes conflicting, audit regimes. Civil society organisations and worker advocacy groups operate in adjacent spaces without always connecting. Standards bodies proliferate.
Everyone, broadly, is working toward similar goals, although often not talking to each other. RISE occupies a distinctive position in this landscape, and that is very exciting. It is neither a traditional implementer of programmes, nor a standard-setting or compliance body, nor a pure advocacy organisation. Instead, it an entity that connects across all these roles. Its value, as I’ve heard members describe it again recently, lies in being close enough to workers to have real credibility, while also being capable of convening brands, suppliers, and civil society around shared approaches. Raising standards across an industry that spans dozens of countries, and wildly different contexts, requires something more nuanced than a universal framework dropped from above: it requires meeting each context where it actually is, and that is something RISE and its partner network in-country is seeking to do.
In terms of what else can be built from these positive early achievements of RISE, I’ve also heard frank recognition of where further work is needed. Impact measurement remains an area of increasing expectation for example. Not just evidence of activity and reach, but demonstrable outcomes. And then the role of suppliers (ie the factories themselves) comes through clearly as under-utilised. For too long, the dominant model has positioned suppliers as recipients of compliance requirements and programme delivery, rather than genuine partners in transformation. That needs to change, and RISE is actively thinking about how to make it change.
Many factories see enormous value in RISE’s approach, precisely because it is collaborative and implementation-oriented (involving practical guidance, peer learning, and workplace-level problem solving) rather than the audit-and-penalise dynamic that has characterised too much of the industry relationship to date.
And, when gender is taken seriously at the factory level, that means something quite specific: it means looking at who gets promoted and who doesn’t, how grievance mechanisms actually function for women in practice, what management culture looks like on the factory floor day to day, and whether the structures in place genuinely enable women to progress or quietly work against them. These are not things an audit captures easily, and they are exactly the kinds of questions that require the kind of sustained, trusted relationships RISE has been building.
There is also a growing demand from both brands and suppliers for a clearer business case, and while that can sound cynical at first blush, it’s actually just realism. Programmes that can demonstrate operational value, worker retention, reduced absenteeism, improved management practices, and a genuine return on investment are programmes that survive strategic reviews and budget cycles. The moral argument for treating workers well is not, on its own, sufficient to drive systemic change in a commercially-driven industry. It needs to be reinforced by the commercial one. This is uncomfortable to say out loud, but the people working in this space are increasingly saying it plainly, and they’re right to.

The broader context for all of this is a global environment that feels considerably less hospitable to progress than it did a decade ago. Trade is increasingly politicised. Tariffs and sanctions are reshaping supply chains. Climate disruption is hitting the regions across South and Southeast Asia where most of the world’s garments are made. Investors are nervous. Governments are looking inward.
In that environment, the risk is that corporate sustainability commitments (many of which are genuine and hard-won) get deprioritised when financial pressure intensifies. Suppliers then get squeezed on price and battered by geopolitical volatility and so have even less bandwidth to invest in the kinds of workplace transformation that RISE and its partners are working towards. This makes the question of scale more urgent than ever.
Proof-of-concept programmes that work well in a handful of factories, or one country, are valuable but insufficient. The industry is vast, and the challenge is how to move from demonstration to systemic change. In a nutshell: how to shift markets and influence policy, not just run good projects in favourable conditions.
I still think about those two people in Taslima Akhter’s photograph. I knew very little about them at the time, except that they went to work one morning in April 2013 and didn’t come home. The garment industry has changed since then, but it has not changed enough.
The architecture of accountability is more developed than it was. The commitments more explicit, the conversations more sophisticated. Ultimately, the number of organisations genuinely trying to make supply chains fairer, safer, and more equitable has grown considerably. We must salute this progress, but also then turn more attention to what organisations such as RISE are doing. RISE is bridging the gap between worker-level reality and industry-level ambition, and after only its first few years of operations, it has galvanised some exciting momentum across its membership, to move beyond compliance to something more akin to genuine transformation.
This work is patient, relational, unglamorous, and, if done well, potentially profound in its effects. The arc from those 1990s sweatshop scandals to where the industry is today has been long and uneven. The people trying to shift it in the right direction deserve more support, more visibility, and frankly more urgency than the world is currently giving them.


























